I’ll be going on my first deer bowhunt this fall in VA. Any suggestions for broadheads? Most of the guys I work with use various mechanicals. Looking for other input. Thanks.

I personally like the cut on contact fixed heads, like Muzzy, G5 Montacs.  I figure no chance for failure, if you put the arrow into the animal it is gonna do its job.  The shop I work at sells more mechanical heads, but the fixed blades aren’t that far behind.  You just need to practice and see what your setup shoots best.

Just be sure not to buy the cheap ones, no walmart specials. I always cringed at the thought of losing a deer because I wouldnt spend just a few bucks more on something really effective.

I would go with Magnus broadhead. Dont have time to mess with bow hunting but the guys I know who do and are serious about killing big bodied deer like we have here in Kansas use Magnus. Granted they are made here in Kansas but when someone puts a lifetime guarantee on something it says a lot for the product. If I ever get the time to put down the shotgun and goose call and start shooting a bow again I will only use Magnus but since I dont I will just stick to killing deer with a 180 grain nosler partition out of my 30.06 but again one hell of a broadhead.Check out the web site I dont think you will be disappointed.

Thanks for the input guys!

I agree with the cut on contact fixed blades.

Another question…I’m shooting a low draw weight (I’m guessing 55-60lbs) and using aluminum arrows, what weight broadhead would be better…85 or 100 grain?

55-60 isn’t really all that low, especially if you are shooting a newer bow.  Shoot 100 grain, they are easier to find (more common) than 85 grain, so you will have a better choice to find what shots best out of your setup.

What size arrows are you shooting? I try to shoot the lightest arrows that are safe for the bow. They keep changing stuff so fast anymore I’m probably behind again, but I think it’s 6 grains per inch, counting broadhead and fletching. If you were shooting 50 # you wouldn’t want to go under 300 grains total arrow weight. The lighter the arrow the more unforgiving the bow(larger groups). If you shoot well, no jerking etc. it wouldn’t matter. I think the lower the pounds you have your bow set, you need the lightest arrow you can shoot safely(for your bow) to get more faster, flatter shooting. Flatter shooting means easier range estimation. I can’t shoot the lightest arrows I can shoot in my bow because my group starts getting bigger.
    Lot’s of people buy their arrows at Wally world and take what ever’s there and kill deer all the time, but if you want the best performance out of your bow I think going to an archery shop and talking to them and trying different arrows is the thing to do. It can get really technical and a turn off, but if you want the best performance match the arrows to your bow.

I finally took the time to measure the arrows…they’re 26 1/4” not counting the nock. They’re Easton Superlite 2213 and 4” vanes. I notice some of the vanes need replacing. Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with the quick fletch products?